#1882 #S1057 - Fogon Cocina Mexicana, Seattle - 9/3/2011

Noel Cortez and Jose Ambriz, whose families come from Michoacán, Mexico and run the Mi Tierra restaurants in Monroe and Woodinville, are having a go in this tough luck Capitol Hill space with Fogon ("stove"). They provide everyone a complementary tostada at the start, as other Mexican places provide chips, and follow that with some nice Michoacán entrees and tasty margaritas.

crab and shrimp enchiladas, Fogon Cocina Mexicana, Seattle

600 East Pine Street Seattle, Washington 98122 - (206) 320-7777
Est. 2012 - Building constructed 2001
Previous bars in this location: Kiki, Kurrent
Web site: fogonseattle.com - facebook
Reviews: thestranger - capitolhillseattle - yelp - urbanspoon 

#1881 #S1056 - Vessel, Seattle - 9/2/2011

Update: This version of Vessel closed Sep 27, 2013

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Like the previous location, Vessel starts with an encumbrance to my affections, as I do not prefer cold, modernist decor in bars -- I wince a bit when I see lots of light, big windows, prominent shiny metals and bright colors. But of course the reason for going to Vessel is the cocktails, and while the decor and service may vary, the cocktails at the place are a continual joy.

For people outside the areas of Seattle and/or the craft cocktail movement, Vessel was a seminal bar for craft cocktails in the area. While you could find great cocktails in a small number of other locations before 2006, Vessel was a place that *preached* great cocktails. You didn't have to be in some tiny coterie of cocktail devotees (that included a tiny minority of bartenders), nor to luck into the rare meeting with a mixologist knowledgeable and patient enough to invest time exploring how your uneducated tastes might best navigate finely made drinks. At Vessel, you *were* going to get a great cocktail, regardless of all other circumstances. And if you wanted vodka, you were out of luck.

Indeed, probably the greatest value that Jamie Boudreau, Jim Romdall, et. al. provided with Vessel was not the individual, carefully crafted cocktails themselves, but rather in spreading the fact that there *are* great cocktails -- a fact that had somehow eluded 99.9% of bar goers heretofore. The rotating bartenders would explore your tastes, create a drink with a manifest precision and care, and they did so not in some secretive back alley hangout, but virtually pressed against the windows of a downtown space next to the 5th Avenue Theater where they snagged your attention like a Macy's Christmas window display.

In December 2010, this original vessel lost its lease and closed shop. The much anticipated new location is in a space of significance to long-time Seattleites, as it housed the original El Gaucho Steakhouse from 1953 to 1985. Owner Jim Romdall had more freedom to design in this space, and one of the ways he took advantage of this was to make multiple decisions that increased the connection between customers and the centers of attention behind the bar. (When one couldn't find a space at the tiny number of seats at the old bar, you sometimes found yourself in an upstairs room that felt a bit like the kids' table at Thanksgiving dinner.) The owners manage a rotating lineup of 25 crackerjack bartenders.

Although I may generally despair of big, bright windows in bars, it is rather nifty that people on the street can see through these into "The Lab," where bartenders experiment with various ingredients and techniques, and pursue the contemporary holy grail of perfect ice. Inside a "Clinebell" machine churns out 300-lb blocks of crystal clear frozen water that is then reduced with chainsaws, band saws, and chipping tools into the ideal spheres or other shapes to balance coldness and dilution. Due to the success of the movement that they helped precipitate, the current Vessel is not quite as essential and unique as the original, but it remains a fantastic place to explore and experience the art of the cocktail.


624 Olive Way Seattle, WA 98101 - (206) 623-3325
Est. Aug 28, 2012 (October 2006 in previous location) - Building constructed: year
Previous bars in this location: El Gaucho
Web site: vesselseattle.com - facebook
Best Reviews: seattlemet - seriouseats - seattleweekly - eater.com - yelp - thestranger

#1880 #S1055 - Rocco's, Seattle - 9/2/2013

Rocco's does not serve my favorite pizza in town, but they are the prettiest. And in addition to their better than average pizza, they provide some quite good craft cocktails. Rocco's is new from Jesus Escobar, the owner of Noc Noc, squeezed into the former space of Dope Burger and Noodle Bar in the same larger structure as the Lava Lounge.  Like many of the other old spaces in this stretch, it is narrow and long. They have done a great job in remodeling the place, with darkened, exposed brick, romantic lighting, old neon beer signs, various celebrity icon portraits, and patches of succulents growing in frames on the walls. The tables were made by the owner from wood pulled from the 1911 ceiling.

One of their more interesting drinking options is a selection of shrubs -- drinking vinegars infused with fruit juices and herbs, with addition bitters and ingredients that you apportion and mix yourself. It is open late for Belltown drinking nights, and seems positioned to do very well in the area without catering too much to the sorts of Belltown crowds you'd prefer to avoid.

2228 2nd Ave, Seattle, WA 98121 - (206) 448-2625
Est. August 22, 2012 - Building constructed: 1911
Previous bars in this location: Dope Burger
Web site: roccosseattle.com - facebook
Best Reviews: seattletimes - thrillist - seattlepi - thestranger - yelp - seattleweekly

#1879 #S1054 - Fumaca Brazilian Steakhouse, Seattle - 9/2/2011

Update: Fumaca closed in June 2014. The building is slated for demolition.

Meat Heaven.

Fumaça (Portuguese for "smoke") was created by some of the crew that worked at the Ipanema Brazilian Grill at the top of the Harbor Steps, and the Amazon Grill in Bellevue.  They even offered to recognize gift certificates issued by the ownership of those restaurants in their own place, built in basically the same model. The owners are Columbian and Puerto Rican, and feature Brazilian "rodizio", Puerto Rican "sazon", and Peruvian ceviche.

Of course you must have the rodizio here.  It is not super cheap ($24 for lunch and $40 for dinner), but it is well worth it if you are hungry.  The salad bar sorts of offerings, from artisan cheeses, to various fruits and vegetables, beans, etc. are probably worth the price alone, but the stars are the charcoal grilled meats, continuously brought to your table on stakes by "gauchos."

The bar is not particularly special, but you can have a nice caipirinha as you recover from your food coma.

101 Denny Way, Seattle, WA 98109 - (206) 453-4366
Est. Aug 28, 2012 - Building constructed: 1926
Previous bars in this location: Whym, Blush Lounge, 101 Lounge
Web site: fumacaseattle.com - facebook
Best Reviews: seattletimes - thrillist - eater.com - yelp - thestranger

#1878 #S1053 - El Borracho, Seattle - 9/1/2011

El Borracho ("the drunk") is a new Mexican place in the space of the old Pan African along 1st Ave in the Pike Place Market. It is run by Kittie Davidovich of Le Bon Ton Roule, who has said she is after a sort of taco truck kind of place. There is a wide range of pretty good taco truck style tacos (including lamb, shrimp, pork, fish, beef, and rabbit) and a nice choice of margaritas.

1521 1st Ave, Seattle, WA 98101 - (206) 538-0440
Est. Aug 2012
Previous bars in this location: Pan African Market

Reviews: seattlemet - thestranger - yelp

#1877 #S1052 - Ballard Station, Seattle - 9/1/2011

The Ballard Station Public House is a substantial upgrade in maturity in both management and drink quality from the shortlived Ballard Avenue Pub.  The cocktails are quite good -- I especially liked the Sundance Kid (Old Overholt rye, lillet and Cynar) -- the vibe is casual and welcoming, and features nods to both Ballard history and traditional British pubs.

2236 NW Market St, Seattle, WA 98107 - (206) 999-5600           
Est. Aug 13, 2012 - Building constructed: 1927
Previous bars in this location: Ballard Avenue Pub
Web site: theballardstation.com - facebook
Best Reviews: myballard - seattlemet - thestranger - seattleweekly - yelp

#1876 #S1051 - Borsalino's, Seattle - 8/29/2011

Update: Borsalino's closed in Feb 2013.

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For the past decade or so (2001-2011), this was Romio's Pizza, in the odd castle-like building just south of the University Bridge and across the street from the original Red Robin Tavern/Restaurant. In October of 2011, it was modernized into Borsalino's, which included upgrades to more high quality food stressing organic ingredients. The remodeling did not go so far as to replace the signage outside, but instead drapes some quickie banners over the railing. The bar and the food both seemed fairly pedestrian -- a decent alternative if you happen to be nearby, but nothing notable enough to draw from a wider area.

Historical (and personal) notes: In addition to serving as a furniture store and art gallery, this castle-like building has hosted the Town House Restaurant in the 30s, the Llahngaelhyn jazz and coffee house from 1965 to 1968,  Rapunzel's Tavern from 1975 to 1985, and the Scoundrel's Lair (and "Club Fiasco") briefly in the mid 80s. Scoundrel's Lair was booked by Jon Poneman of SubPop, and was one of the few pre-Nevermind clubs that booked alternative bands, including small touring national acts like the Cowboy Junkies and Dead Milkmen, as well as local bands like Green River, Soundgarden, The Melvins, Pure Joy, Room 9, Cat Butt and Girl Trouble. In addition to seeing several of those bands there, I remember a particularly rocking night with the Royal Crescent Mob, and also one night there when I first really talked to the woman who would become my wife (after meeting at the Central Tavern before a Sonic Youth show).

3242 Eastlake Avenue East Seattle, WA 98102 - (206) 323-4444
Est. Oct 2011 - Closed Feb 2013 - Building constructed: 1916
Previous bars in this location: The Town House, Rapunzel's Tavern, Scoundrel's Lair
Web site: borsalinospizzapasta.com  
Reviews: thestranger - eastlakeseattle.org (building history) - yelp - urbanspoon

#1875 - Marko's Place, Roslyn, WA - 8/25/2011

Marko's is a very old, very laid back, and a bit artsy. It's under fairly new management, which has upgraded the beer choices. It has a mix of art on the brick walls, a pressed tin ceiling, and a grand old oak back bar. The sign says that it was established during prohibition, in 1931, and while it is unclear when it became a legal bar, it seems highly likely that this was shortly after the federal Beer and Wine Revenue Act took effect in April 1933. Two daughters of founder Marko Korich, Mary and Eva, have left audio recordings describing their father buying the place around the start of the decade and selling wine he made in the basement as well as bootleg whiskey though prohibition. While at the bar I also chatted with Alex, now 84, who remembered sneaking into the bar when he was 11-- i.e. in 1939.  (Alex's hearing is not what it used to be; when someone asked "Do you have email?" he responded, "Have female?")


The 1937 Polk Guide lists a bar owned by Marko Korich, but at the address of 13 1st N. I'm fairly confident this was the same building, because we already know that Roslyn changed the street numbering scheme along this street, as The Brick, now listed at 100, was listed at 1 in the 1930s and 40s. In addition, Marko's daughters allude to the bar being in the same building the entire time.

The sisters also mention that Marko purchased the bar from a Mr. Bruno, and a 1913 Polk Guide lists a bar owned by Bruno & Filberto. This listing does not include an address, but it is intriguing to consider whether it is the same location.

In any case, it's a friendly bar, with a nice patio area, fairly basic liquors and beers. The new owner is working on fixing up the back patio area, where locals used to play bocce ball 70 years ago.

(There are some very old looking bar tokens for Marko's out there.)

106 North First Street, Roslyn, Washington 98941 - (509) 649-2349
Est. 1931 (bar since at least 1933?)
Web site: facebook
Best Reviews: dorandbob - yelp - tripadvisor 

#1874 - Arnie's Horseshoe, Ellensburg, WA - 8/25/2011

I do not know how old the Horseshoe is, but a 1970 article in the Ellensburg Daily Record describes it as being sold to a new owner in 1918 (this account may not be entirely correct, as it describes that year as "a year before prohibition became law," and prohibition was in effect in Washington state Jan 1, 1916). Also, there is no bar listed at this address in either the 1937 or 1949 Polk Guides (I did not check under other business types), however there is one listed in 1911 under "Whitman & Lee" and again in 1913 under "C E Whitman."

In any case, the article recounts a storied history, back to the days when bars on the street were open 24-hours and the owner did much of his sales in gold. As was not unusual northwest bars in the late 19th and early 20th century, the Horseshoe also appears to have served as a bank, payroll office, and employment office -- e.g. distributing payroll to thrashing crews.

The current version of the Horseshoe positions itself as a sports bar, but more closely resembles a class, rural dive, with hunting trophies, paraphernalia for watery, corporate beers, and stickers sporting dopey jokes. Some of the latter evince a bit of the douchebag element that currently tends to hang out there ("Are all women on the rag the same day?" "Speak English or get the fuck out"). It can sometimes have a high BBCS (Backwards Baseball Cap Score), but most the folks there seem pretty agreeable.

106 West 3rd Avenue Ellensburg, WA 98926 - (509) 925-4044
Est. ? (1911 or earlier?)
Reviews and articles: Ellensburg Daily Record - yelp - urbanspoon

#1873 - The Palace Cafe, Ellensburg, WA - 8/25/2011

Ellensburg may be the best town in the state for old bars, and as you are reminded by a number of signs, the Palace Cafe has been around since 1892. It existed in a couple different locations until opening in the current space in 1949. However, it is not clear how long the cafe has also featured a saloon. The drinks are pedestrian, but it's got a nice vibe with lots of historical photos. And while it is not quite an alley entrance (always a welcome sign for a bar), there is a sort of back door side entrance that most the bar patrons use.

323 North Main Street Ellensburg, WA 98926 - (509) 925-2327
Est. ? (Restaurant est. 1892, in current location 1949)

Web site: thepalacecafe.net - facebook
Reviews: tripadvisor - yelp - collegehotsheet - urbanspoon

#1872 - Fat Cat's, Walla Walla, WA - 8/25/2011

Okay, I did not do a good job searching for the interesting bars in Walla Walla.

430 West Main St, Walla Walla, WA 99362 - (509) 529-8233
Reviews: insiderpages - yellowbot - tripadvisor - yelp 

#1871 - Bojack's Broiler Pit, Lewiston, ID - 8/25/2011

Named for original owners Bob and Jack, who for some reason decided to put a steakhouse restaurant in the basement of a rollicking dive bar upstairs, Bojack's is a local institution. It was founded in 1951, purchased by Wally and Katie Eglund in 1969 (the restaurant that is, they bought the bar later), and run by the Eglund family ever since.  The bar upstairs is fun, if a little intimidating for some diners to traverse, and there are nifty signs on either side of the building.  Locals recommend the Bite Sized Steak (tender deep fried pieces of steak).

311 Main Street, Lewiston, ID 83501 - (208) 746-9532           
Est. 1951

Web site: bojacksbroilerpit.com - facebook  
Best Reviews: inland360 - yelp - tripadvisor - urbanspoon 

#1870 - Brodock's, Grangeville, ID - 8/25/2011

Although it was staffed by nice people, this bar in Oscar's Restaurant seemed boring and formulaic when we visited, with the vibe of an Applebees.  But I've seen a few Oscar's reviewers who complained about all the noise coming from the bar, so we clearly did not come at a good time to judge.

Grangeville, Idaho is the largest town in Idaho County, at the base of the state's pan handle. It arose in a large meadow at the edge of the Nez Perce National Forest -- traversed by gold prospectors whose fortune seeking was not to be slowed by the treaty granting the Nez Perce control of the area. It was incorporated in 1889 and now has a population of around 3,000 people.  Brodock's is the most genteel of the handful of bars in town.

101 E Main, Grangeville, ID - (208) 983-2106
Reviews: localtom - tripadvisor - yelp - travel.yahoo  - beerandwhiskeybros

#1869 - The Establishment, Grangeville, ID - 8/25/2011

"The Establishment" was admittedly our second choice in Grangeville, after finding our original target, "Earnie's Man Cave," closed.  Earnie's was marked by the name formed in rope light above the door, signs on the door itself only partially obscuring the old NAPA Auto Parts signs, and a confusing sandwich board that listed the hours as "Open 1am to close."

So confused and disappointed, we wandered down to The Establishment, "North Central Idaho's Premier night spot."  That it may be, as one bitter online reviewer includes among his complaints that the (fairly sizable) place is "way too small for the crowd that it draws, especially in the summer time."  But on this lazy Saturday afternoon, it was just us and a bored bartender.

142 E. Main St, Grangeville, ID 83530 - 208-983-1830
Reviews: bermtopia - lewisclarknightout  - travel.yahoo

#1868 - The Silver Dollar, White Bird, ID - 8/25/2011

White Bird, Idaho, is named for the chief of the Lamátta band of the Nez Perce, a leader in the Battle of White Bird Canyon, where in 1877 the Nez Perce routed the U.S. Army in the opening skirmish of the Nez Perce War.  Although White Bird's resistance continued beyond the surrender of Chief Joseph (attributed with the line "From where the sun now stands I will fight no more forever"), the U.S., of course, eventually prevailed, in what an 1877 New York Times editorial described as "On our part, the war was in its origin and motive nothing short of a gigantic blunder and a crime." (1)

In the current town of White Bird, population 91, down the canyon along Old U.S. Highway 95, is the Silver Dollar Cafe and Saloon.  You walk in under a baggie of water hanging over the door, which people believe keeps away flies.  The saloon is in front, where a woman with a beehive hairdo serves strong, cheap drinks.  Through the saloon is the cafe, where locals play cribbage and refresh their coffee at the self-serve stand.  The locals do not immediately cotton to out-of-towners, and it takes a while to find who might eventually warm up to chat with you.  We didn't find out how long the Silver Dollar had been around, but apparently an old version burned down, and this one was rebuilt around 1951.

100 Old US Highway 95 White Bird, ID 83554 - (208) 839-2293
Est. 1952 - Building constructed: 1951?
Reviews: barflyzen - earthwormenvy - richardbiking - yelp 

#1867 - Summerville's Cafe and Bar, Riggins, ID - 8/25/2011

The small town of Riggins, Idaho lies deep in a canyon, just west of the deepest gorge in north America (the Snake River Canyon) and in the shadows of the Seven Devils Mountains, which the Nez Perce once said were seven giant, child-eating monsters.  It is also at the confluence of the Little Salmon and the Salmon Rivers, the latter the longest free flowing river in the contiguous 48 states, with it's portion to the north long known as the "River of No Return." It is the Salmon that makes this old gold miner's town double in population in the summer months, and claim title to the whitewater capitol of Idaho, or of the "universe," depending upon who you talk to.  It is a far cry from the days when the town was originally named "Gouge Eye," after a tussle between two gold miners at odds over the affections of a local woman.

Despite the tourists, the town of 500 or so residents is happily free of chain restaurants, and the few local watering holes might have an expansive area for hosting large numbers of visiting bikers and rafters, fronted by a cozy area attended regularly by the locals and peppered with photos of various citizens with their hunting and fishing trophies.  This is the case with Summerville's Cafe, and it was in the small bar area that we met old John, a throwback to the times when gold miners first settled in the area in the 1850s.  John looked the perfect example of a mountain man, with his bushy beard and missing ring finger he'd lost when his ring caught in some large machinery.

And indeed John actually moved into the area to pan for gold, and lived there with a fat, diabetic mutt he named "Dog," which he was nursing through various infirmities.  Despite John's gentle nature and our pleasant conversation ranging from highway routes to cell phone carriers, we could barely have imagined a more perfect bar stool companion for evoking the days of old Gouge Eye.

106 S Main St, Riggins, ID - (208) 628-3311                      

#1866 - Paradise Burgers, McCall, ID - 8/23/2011

Update: The gates of Paradise are now permanently closed.

This is an odd sort of paradise -- somewhere between a fast food joint, a sports bar, a classic diner, and a teen hangout.  The small, limited bar doesn't have any particular attractions to recommend it, but the place has personality.


319 North 3rd St, McCall, ID 83638 - (208) 634-8377
Reviews: yelp - tripadvisor