Rotgut.org Blog: #5750 - Speak of the Devil, Lorain, OH

Friday, May 03, 2024

#5750 - Speak of the Devil, Lorain, OH - 5/1/2024

Speak of the Devil, Lorain, OH

First, in full disclosure, I could hardly be more in love with this bar, these people, and this town. It didn't hurt that as I turned off Highway 6 along Lake Erie, just after crossing the Black River, and onto Lorain, Ohio's historic main drag Broadway, the weather was beautiful and the skies filled with clouds that appeared to be painted by Maxfield Parrish.

Were this part of town anywhere on the west coast, it would be packed with antique stores, gift shops, and coffee shops, and people would be contesting for available paid parking. But this old steel and shipping town hasn't reached anything much like that, although the potential is obvious from the beautiful old buildings, and the renaissance has clearly begun. Many people say the revitalization was sparked by my destination today -- the "Speak of the Devil" craft cocktail bar.

It was audacious indeed for Kurt and Page Hernon to found such a bar here, in what was commonly considered pretty much a ghost town. But Kurt had become deeply interested in the history and construction of fine cocktails -- apparently taking the typical career path of air traffic controller, to punk rock reporter, to owning an upscale bar in a town where no one would expect one. He'd created and hosted various cocktail related events over the last several years, before the couple sold their house, purchased a 1902 building just off the main drag, remodeled the upper portion into their living quarters, and the bottom into a just lovely bar.

You feel welcome the instant you enter the place -- I was first greeted by Kurt's son Hiatt, who explained that I was welcome to sit anywhere, including the back patio. As I spoke to Hiatt, bartenders Jack and Noah, and eventually Kurt and Page themselves, I quickly came to appreciate all their devotion to the craft of cocktailing, the history, and practicing their craft in a friendly, neighborhood setting.

Among the various spirits they discussed, they noted their emphases on Old Overholt, established in 1810 and commonly considered the longest running whiskey brand in America. American whiskey really started with Pennsylvania rye, and while Old Overholt languished with some relatively unexciting mash bills -- under the ownership of Jim Beam for the last few decades -- over the last several years new releases have revitalized the brand. And Speak of the Devil sells tons of it.

Kurt Hernon and Paulius Nasvytis

Yet another pleasant surprise for me was their stolid antique back bar -- different from any I have seen before, and obtained by Kurt after residing in an Akron, Ohio Knights of Columbus Hall. The bar and the town both have the sort of community that when Kurt posted a request for help unloading and setting it up in Feb 2017, more than a dozen people showed up and got the thing in place. It's hard for me to describe -- it looks like it could be mid-century, or art deco, or just the whims of a local wordworker. So you'll have to rely on the photos.

As luck would have it this evening, Paulius Nasvytis, the founder of seminal Cleveland cocktail lounge "The Velvet Tango Room," dropped by this evening as well. This was much appreciated by Kurt and crew, who were largely inspired by the bar.

Noah, Page, Hiatt, and Jack
Great people!

Lorain, Ohio is 150 miles from us, so unfortunately we can't make this bar a regular hangout. But it is most definitely going onto my favorites list, and I can't wait to come back, especially with Trista and other friends and relatives.