#2179 - Cryptatropa, Olympia, WA - 5/19/2013

Cryptatropa is a chill and pleasantly dark goth club at the end of Olympia's 4th Avenue run of bars. The high booths (said to be made from a 500-year-old fir) and separate rooms, including the cramped back room for bands, and the lack of a dance floor, all add to a relatively private and clubby feel. At the very attractive bar, they have a collection of rare liquors, including, of course, several absinth choices.

421 4th Ave E, Olympia, WA 98501 - (360) 754-3867
Est. Oct 1, 2010
Previous bars in this location: Manium
Web site: facebook
Reviews: northwestmilitary - tnt - yelp - tripadvisor

#2178 - Pe Ell Pub, Pe Ell, WA - 5/19/2013

"Welcome to Pe Ell," I am greeted with as I enter the Pe Ell Pub, "You won't like it and you'll never come back."

Actually, the very first words this woman greeted me with as I stepped in the door were "We're closed." It turned out this was a joke, and I can't remember the woman's name, partly because I just started calling her "Chamber of Commerce Lady" after her first few snarky comments about the town.

Actually I *do* like Pe Ell. I like the smell of log fires wafting through the air as you arrive, I like the tiny town, and I like this little bar with the sign that says simply "The Pub." Chamber of Commerce Lady tells me that the building used to be the morgue and that underneath there are tunnels used during prohibition, but I've heard local lore about tunnels in so many bars around the state and with so little remaining evidence, I take this part with a grain of salt. I would really like to know how old the Pe Ell Pub is, as it has clearly been around for some time. (A 1934 city guide lists only "Pastime Billiards," with no address, under bars in Pe Ell.) I'd also like to know how Pe Ell got its name -- and so would the town, apparently, as there are competing theories.

Today the pub is a classic, small town dive, with Taco Tuesdays, Bingo Nights, Ladies Nights, Man Nights, karaoke, and a lively little crowd rooting for the Seahawks like pretty much every bar across the state. Actually, I think I'll come back sometime.

205 N Main St, Pe Ell, Washington 98572 - (360) 291-2707
Web site: facebook

#2177 - Duffy's Irish Pub, Grays River, WA - 5/19/2013

Of course it feels a bit absurd to refer to a bar as "magical," but I'll be damned if I can think of a better word for the experience of stumbling upon Duffy's Irish Pub.  It seems to pop out of nowhere as you round a bend in Highway 4, out of the forested surroundings and past a few lonely farm houses where Grays River meanders in a loop, west of Naselle and east of Skamokawa.  I'm sure I'm not the only one who, driving by for the first time -- bar project or not -- rounded this bend and gasped something along the lines of "WHAT ... is THAT?!?"

And it only becomes more remarkable when you step inside. Here in the middle of nowhere is a ;pub with more nooks and crannies crammed full of more curious stuff than any Irish bar and half the museums in Portland or Seattle. It feels less like a pub than the lifetime antique collection of some distinctively peculiar collector. And adding to the uncanny feeling, I was the only person in the sizable place, until bartender Lorraine eventually came around the corner.

Lorraine explained that the place is owned by Al Salazar, who used to own the The Pine Street Theater. "at one time, Portland's largest rock and roll club, featuring two or three  national musical acts each weekend." A stage at the east end of the building is papered with flyers for the bands that played the Pine Street. Lorraine told me that Al used to have regular live bands here, but it was just too hard to draw a crowd with so few people close by and not even any motels very near. From the stage, you walk pass a couple rooms that feel like a crazy grandmother's house, walls and shelves full of various knickknacks, antiques, and oddities. Turn left and walk along the bar past the wood-burning stove, through another tiny room and you reach the patio looking out on the river. Unfortunately I had recently eaten, but Duffy's offers various American comfort foods along with some Irish classics, along with some fairly standard choices in beers and spirits.

After finishing a quick Hendricks and Tonic and a much longer tour marveling at the place, I headed back to my car and was greeted by Jeremy, the neighbor from across the street. Jeremy has his own crazy hodgepodge of buildings and collectibles, and told me he painted the sign for Duffy's. Jeremy sells antiques from the side of the road in front of his place, and would surely be the town character if not for Al Salazar. Finally, I get into my car and continue on my way, with Duffy's and the boat that once housed "Covered Bridge Fish'n'Chips" quickly disappearing behind a bend. And again I think, as I return to the long stretches of tree-lined road only occasionally interrupted by a barn or humble house, I can't be the only one who has wondered "Did I really just see what I just saw?"

3779 State Rt 4 West, Grays River, WA - (360) 465-2898
Est. April 27, 2001
Previous bars in this location: None
Web site: duffysirishpub.com
Reviews: tripadvisor - yelp - urbanspoon 

#2176 - Oasis Tavern, Skamokawa, WA - 5/19/2013

Pete (mandolin), ?, and Don (dulcimer) at the
Oasis Tavern, Skamokawa, Washington

Update: The Oasis Tavern closed and has been replaced by the Roadkill Saloon.

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For most people, the drive from Portland to Seattle is a 3 to 4 hour trip, but I tend to wander and it usually takes me something more like 13 hours. That doesn't mean I don't often wish I had more time, as I definitely did when I dropped into the Oasis Tavern in Skamokawa. The Oasis had been closed for four years, after previous owner Wanda Rudy passed away. But it was very substantially remodeled and reopened by Rick and Eileen Tietje in September of 2012. They used wood paneling recovered from a local friend's collapsed 1897 barn, and from an abandoned house in a ditch. They built an all new bar and created lamps from mason mars and old pulleys.

You're not likely to stumble upon the Oasis by accident -- it's hidden off Highway 4 a piece, just above where Brooks Slough meets the Columbia River, as it starts to widen in the last 30 miles to the Pacific. But if you find it on a day like today, a lazy Sunday with sunbeams pouring through the windows and folks songs strumming out from some of the locals, you feel like spending the entire day there. It's just about as comfortable and pleasant as a bar can be.



It's hard to say how old the Oasis is -- I haven't found any real mentions of it from before Red Almer bought the place in 1981. The owners heard it was the second oldest bar in the state, but such oral histories usually turn out to be inaccurate. But since they also heard that it opened right after prohibition and was always called the "Oasis," I'm going to guess it goes back to sometime in 1933, maybe even a bit before "prohibition" ended in December, and closer to April 7 when the Beer and Wine Revenue Act took effect. In any case, if you have the time, the drive up Highway 4 along the northern side of the Columbia is a lovely diversion, and it's well worth a turn up East Valley Road to have a pint at the Oasis.

8 Fairgrounds Rd, Skamokawa, WA 98612 - (360) 795-8672                
Est. 1933?
Previous bars in this location: None known
Web site: oasismexicanbarandgrill.com - facebook
Reviews: tdn - yelp - tripadvisor

#2175 - Diner on Main, Cathlamet, WA - 5/19/2013

The Diner on Main was a shortlived diner and lounge in the neat, old fishing village of Cathlamet, WA. Unfortunately, the bars with a lot of character in Cathlamet have all closed down. Long gone is the old Spar; the old Columbia Saloon sign hangs tantalizingly over a remodeled building, but shows no hint of an actual opening date; and in 2009 they shuttered the River Rat Tap for good, the last bar in a great old 1890 space hanging over the Columbia River, with porthole windows, and upper floor once used as a dance floor and a skating rink, and interior used for the filming of "Men of Honor." The Diner on Main didn't have much personality in the decor -- a 50s theme with the same Marilyn Monroe, Elvis, and James Dean pictures you've seen in countless diners across the country, and now it's closed too.

I don't know what John Anderson will do now. When we chatted with him in the lounge he told us he came here every day and has three beers. "I'm 76 years old," he told us, "There's nothing else to do." John cuts a classic figure with his dirty cowboy hat and big handlebar moustache. Maybe now he'll head up to the Oasis Tavern in Skamokawa? Cathlamet remains one of the nicer little communities to visit along the big river. It really seems like it deserves a good bar or two in some nice, old spaces -- and without the cheesy 50s decorations.

88 Main St, Cathlamet, WA 98612 - (360) 795-0591
Est. March 2013 - Closed 2013 or 2014
Reviews: tdn - yelp

#2174 - Nick's, Amboy, WA - 5/19/2013

"World Famous Nick's Bar and Grill" in Amboy, WA, just 4 miles up the road from "World Famous Red Fir Inn" in Yacolt, closed in December 2013, three months after its owner Jimmy Hill died and seven months after this visit. When it closed it was noted that it was the "oldest bar in Amboy," which really only means it is older than Timbers Saloon up the road, but nevertheless it has a long and storied past. Previously called White's Tavern, the bar was purchased in March of 1951 by Jimmy's Uncle Nick Iverson. In August of that year, the tavern nearly burned down with the other buildings around it, but Nick's was saved, Jimmy said, by workers on the Dam covering themselves in wet blankets and throwing buckets of water to save their local watering hole. (Jimmy Hill, Nick's Facebook).

I do not know how long White's Tavern had been there, or any history of the place before it became Nick's. Clark County tax records do not provide a construction date for the building. Fortunately, the Facebook page says that they're reopening Nick's, apparently sometime in early May 2014. Assuming it will be much as it was before, Nick's will contain a diner portion, a bar serving the basics, and a relatively large area for live music and dancing. It is a favorite stop for bikers, which is always a good sign for bar with character in rural parts of the state.

22011 NE 399th St, Amboy, WA 98601 - (360) 247-9914
Est. 1951
Previous bars in this location: White's Tavern
Web site: nicksbarandgrill.com - facebook
Reviews: yelp - urbanspoon - insiderpages - firstcallseptic

#2173 - Red Fir Inn, Yacolt, WA - 5/19/2013

Yacolt, Washington is a small town of many ghosts. The first ones you notice are the ghosts of old businesses, like the Tall Man's Saloon, layers of dust accruing after the Mt. St. Helens eruption or the 2008 recession slowly drove the places under. Later you read the stories -- residents seeing a man with red eyes staring at them in their bed, laughing children on the stairs, being followed by "little witches." You learn about the "Yacolt Burn," still the largest fire in state history, which burned 238,000 acres and killed 38 people in 1902, leaving residents standing in the Lewis River with every other form of non-flying animal, only to return to a blackened moonscape.  When the small economic boom from salvaging the burned lumber started dying out, the town started to die with it. The general manager of the Clark County Timber Company said, "At Yacolt we have two or three worn out buildings, all vacant and without any perceptible value whatever, these including an old warehouse, a residence formerly occupied by our logging Superintendent, a hospital building, which has been robbed of much of its equipment, and one or two very small buildings of no value, in fact none of them have any value today for Yacolt is absolutely dead with no promise for a future life" (historylink)

And finally there's the very name of the place. "Yacolt" is an Indian term meaning "haunted place" or "place of evil spirits." The name is said to have come from the Klickitats, based on a time when their children went out to pick berries and were snatched away forever by evil spirits. Or maybe it was from a time the Klickitats massacred a group of Wilamie in the berry fields, letting just one Wilamie girl escape, and then being haunted for generations by a female voice singing the Wilamie death song.

It was in this area that Dave Ayers was working graveyard shifts as a millright, then having breakfast at the Red Fir.  The population of Yacolt had been picking up for several years, as it shifted to a bedroom community where people enjoyed the relaxed, natural setting after driving home from jobs in nearby towns. After "28 years and 2 days" in that career, Dave told me with evident specificity, the lady who owned the Red Fir asked him if he wanted to buy the place. He said he agreed, chucked his wristwatch into the parking lot that day, never got another one, and won't touch a computer.

That was 8 or 9 years ago, and now Dave is looking to sell the place -- which the sign out front claims is now "world famous" -- and retire. It's a pleasant, relaxed place, at least on afternoons like the one when I walked in, with Dave and Ernest the cook and bartender happy to tell you about the joint, while locals file in with their own pool cues. Dave added a pizza oven, so they serve those in addition to the standard bar food and some fairly good beer selections.

The Red Fir has been around since 1963, and you really hope Dave finds a good buyer. Nick's up the road in Amboy, the oldest bar in the area, closed not too long after this visit to the area. And it would be a damned shame to see the Red Fir become just another Yacolt ghost.

303 N Amboy Ave, Yacolt, WA 98675 - (360) 686-8222
Est. 1963
Reviews: thereflector - columbian - yelp - urbanspoon